- 3.5 mm RA rubber
- Midsole stiffness: Harder
- Line synthetic upper
- Approx. weight: 428 g (per pair)
- Size: US 4-14 / EU 35.5-48.5
- Fit: Aggressive downturn
- Upper: SOLO Suede
- Insole: SOLO Suede
- Tongue: Suede + Tricoat
- Precision lacing system
UP RA / REAL ADVANCED
|COMPOUND MIXING||CA, USA|
Aaron Hjelt (verified owner) –
After two month of using these in El Salto and the surrounding limestone crags of Northern Mexico, I can say, without a doubt, these are my favorite sport lace-ups. Ever. Despite having Sirius LVs along, as well as some old Dragons, and Quantums (purples and blues) I laced these up for nearly every route I got on. If you’ve been to El Salto lately, you know how polished it’s become. The rubber and precision fit of these is unbelievable. UP improved on the old Purps with a construction that holds up pitch after pitch. This fit also eliminates some of the sloppy dead space. The lacing system is a great improvement: kind of a Miura-type feel. It’s solid and doesn’t need to be cranked on.
The 3.5 RA rubber is super sticky and easy to engage. I did wear my toes out, but I’ve also been putting up new routes – this is to be expected. I’m planning on getting them resoled with a thicker and harder rubber, and have a fresh pair on standby with the RA.
As for sizing, I stuck with my old Purple Quantum sizing and this worked great. When comparing the two, the old Purps were visually a half size smaller, but with the NewTros, I didn’t think they felt looser. There’s more structure to them, so they fit better. I wouldn’t size down. For reference, I’m a 7.5 in the Vims and 9.0 in the Sirius LV and Regulus LV.
This is another amazing shoe from the UP crew.
Carly (verified owner) –
Purple quantums had been my favorite shoe for years.
When mine finally kicked it I bought these. Very similar feel to the purple quantums.
Fit my foot like a glove. Heel doesn’t fall out.
Bought a 7.5 in these (the same size as my quantums), the neutrolaces feel slightly bigger, maybe half size.
AB (verified owner) –
I wear a Muira lace (EU 38.5) and an Instinct VS WM (EU 39)– and this shoe has my favorite heel. The Newtro is sticky and edges well. I’ve loved bouldering it in it and when it comes to vertical pocketed climbing it slaps.
Marty (verified owner) –
I really like these shoes and the rubber is no joke. I ordered on the low end of my street shoe size as recommended but the shoes are actually quite big, I could have probably downsized 1 full size because I have a lot of room in the heel and some in the toe. I have a wide forefoot and very low volume heel so even though the toe is doable, I find myself uncertain on hard heel hooks. But despite the sizing issue, I’m still climbing the hardest I’ve ever climbed and the shoes are performing great, just next time I’ll size down. The rubber is super grippy and gives me a lot of confidence.
DO NOT SIZE DOWN IF YOU HAVE A HIGH VOLUME FOOT OR HIGH INSTEP.
I wish the other reviews were actually helpful and I wouldn’t have ordered a pair of shoes that, inevitably, didn’t fit. Because I have a high volume foot, I couldn’t get my heel in the shoe. There is a very stiff piece of rubber across the heel (to secure it and prevent it from popping out). That piece of rubber creates a pinch point and if you size down too much, your foot won’t go in.
Street shoe: men’s 9 (42)
I ordered: men’s 8.5 (women’s 10).
I went a half a size down but should have gone a half size up from my street shoe size.
I gave it 4 stars because the shoe looks sick and unparallel rubber is sticky af.
I’ve only worn these once, but already have a really good feeling about them. They edge precisely and with good power but have enough flex that they can smear well too. Comparing them to the Five Ten Blue Quantums the toe is more precise and they edge with much more power as they are a bit stiffer, and the heel is much improved! The blue Quantums used to roll off my heel quite easily, but the Newtros are way more secure. The lacing system that UP use is bomber as well!
Sizing wise, I have the Newtros in a EU42 (medium fit). To compare I have Scarpa Instinct VSR in 41.5 (medium-aggressive), UP Lace in 41 (medium), old Five Ten Anasazi Pinks in 41.5 (medium), Blue Quantums (old five ten sizing before you had to go up a full size) in 42 (relaxed fit), last season’s UP Sirius in 42.5 (medium)
Lena Schlichting (verified owner) –
I love these shoes, the fit is really comfortable and supportive while being very precise. My finicky feet only liked the blue Quantums and the old Testarossa – so happy to have found the Newtro working well for me. They are also lasting much better than the recent 5.10 Quantum model (which is discontinued). I find the Newtro to work excellent on limestone, dolomite, granite and gneiss, from slab to steep, while being ultra comfortable and supportive for the big toe. I hope the shoe stays as is for many years to come!
bpfoley89 (verified owner) –
I went from the 13.5 Vim to this in 13.5 and the fit was a little more relaxed, but close enough that they’re solid on my feet with an aggressive toe curl. Took these out on sandstone and they performed well!