Description
FEATURES
- 3.5 mm RA rubber sole
- Extended toe rand rubber
- Midsole stiffness: Hard
- Lined synthetic upper
- Vegan
DATA
- Approx. weight: 431 g (per pair)
- Size: US 4-14 / EU 35.5-48.5
- Fit: Aggressive downturn
COMPOSITION
- Upper: SOLO Suede
- Insole: SOLO Suede
- Strap: Webbing
- Rubber: RA rubber
CLOSURE
- Z-shaped Velcro strap
UP RA / REAL ADVANCED
| SHORE A | 80-84 |
| [HARDNESS] | |
| RESILIENCE | 15% |
| (REBOUND) | |
| DIN ABRASION | 295 |
| TOLERANCE | +/- 5% |
| COMPOUND MIXING | CA, USA |
| CALENDAR ROLL | USA |
Jack Fieldhouse –
I’m loving this shoe! Great fit right out of the box and a nice quick closure system.
Sam –
One of the first shoes that has an aggressive fit, yet feels great on the feet right out of the box! I suggest sizing to your street shoe size or a half size lower for a more aggressive fit. The thin sensitive, yet hard rubber is a genius combo and makes this shoe great for edging and steep overhang. Highly recommend!
Aaron Hjelt (verified owner) –
This is my new favorite gym shoe. Easy on/easy off when I’m doing laps or intervals, yet still has an aggressive nature. It will do everything really well. Especially stick. As a coach, I put dozens of my youth athletes in the Anasazi Arrowheads (lots of kids have skinny feet and need Velcro shoes otherwise they never take them off), so I was psyched to see the remakes. They are very similar in fit, but are built better. They are still narrow. The heel gets locked in by the closure system. UP has improved upon from the classic split tongue design. It works really well with this shoe. I went with the same size as my NewTro lace ups, Vims, Sirius, and Regulus, which are all 7.5, and I wear an 8 street shoe and 8.5 trail shoe. Break-in time was 1-2 sessions.
I can’t think of a better performance oriented one-shoe-does-it-all for medium to low-volume fit on market right now.
Vivian Tang (verified owner) –
This is my goldilocks of shoes!! The “lace” system is generous, with enough material to tighten right up even for people with slimmer feet. The rubber has also been really amazing! Sticky, soft, but long lasting. I’ve climbed outdoors in my Newtros for two full seasons and they still have lots of life left in them! I would suggest wearing the same size as street shoes for a more comfort fit and half a size down for more performance 🙂
jwalkerasdf –
This shoe is by far the best approximation of the old FiveTen Hiangle last that I have found in Unparallels lineup. Comfy right out of the box and an absolute weapon at the crag, this shoe offers a more snug heel than the Regulus while not compromising on comfort or stiffness. I am interested to see how the NewTro stacks up to the Regulus LV, but I believe this is a great shoe for the steep boulders and routes alike!
Bravo Unparallel!
Bob Anderson (verified owner) –
Would be a perfect shoe IMO if it had a single strap velcro closure system like the TN Pro. Fit wise, this shoe felt most similar to the Arrowheads and old blue Teams. Amazing heel, very similar to the Vim and Sirius heel with the power stripe riding high on the achilles. Similar to the old Arrowheads, this shoe seems to have one the narrowest/pointy toeboxes of the UP lineup (in contrast to the rounded toebox of the TN Pro and old Hiangle for instance). I particularly like this shoe for toeing down in narrow pockets, and grabbing small but positive footholds in steep terrain.
chazdelacruz89 (verified owner) –
After using these shoes for almost a year now, I have to say they these are the best aggressive shoes that I’ve ever used. As a 10+ year climber who boulders, sport climbs, and trad climbs, these shoes are great try-hard shoes for all disciplines. The 3.5mm stiff rubber is a great combination. It allows for a solid combo of sensitivity and support, and if your footwork is good, they last a long time. The chart shows that they aren’t strong for smearing, but they work very well smearing on Tahoe and Yosemite granite. The one downside is toe hooking because of the closure system, but that doesn’t mean they can’t toe hook. These shoes feel like a mix between the original hi-angles and anasazi arrowheads. My current shoe arsenal consists of Up moccs, TN pro LV, and these. Between all 3, I feel like I can climb anything with confidence. For sizing, I wear 8.5 in both TN pro LV and NewTro, and 8 in UP moccs.
Also, this is the first shoe review I have ever left on a site, but this shoe deserves it.