Description
FEATURES
- 3.5 mm RS rubber sole
- Extended toe rand rubber
- Midsole stiffness: Medium
- Lined synthetic upper
- Vegan
DATA
- Approx. weight: 434 g (per pair)
- Size: US 3-14 / EU 34.5-48.5
- Fit: Aggressive downturn
COMPOSITION
- Upper: SOLO Suede
- Insole: SOLO Suede
- Tongue: Aeroprene Perforate
- Rubber: RS rubber
CLOSURE
- Offset lacing system
UP RS / REAL SUPREME
| SHORE A | 65-70 |
| [HARDNESS] | |
| RESILIENCE | 11% |
| (REBOUND) | |
| DIN ABRASION | 285 |
| TOLERANCE | +/- 5% |
| COMPOUND MIXING | CA, USA |
| CALENDAR ROLL | USA |
SUPERIOR FRICTION, IT CONFORMS TO THE MICRO EDGES AND CRYSTALS.
Aron Back –
The Sirius Lace fits true to your street shoe size, they fit perfectly right out of the box, no adjustment period needed. If you’re looking for more high-end performance then comfort, I personally would recommend going a half size smaller, but no more. The craftsmanship is high quality, including re-enforced lace wholes and pull-on tabs. The rubber is soft but firm. Great for edging on a dime, steep terrain as well as vertical and slab and the heel hooks like a champ. Great for hard bouldering and sport climbing. They are a very versatile shoe, also a great choice for indoor and competition climbing.
bankheadblake (verified owner) –
As said before the fit of these shoes was perfect the moment i put them on. I have had these shoes for close to a month now and i have to say, the asymmetrical lacing made the fit of this shoe a dream. That combined with the reinforcement on the lacing holes made this shoe an absolute work horse! The rubber itself is as good as it comes, able to out smear and edge a majority of the other shoes i have tried. And also bravo on adding a low volume version for the selection as well.
Jack –
The Serious is great shoe! The fit is excellent right out of the box. I got my street shoe size and they work great for extended wear at the gym. I have a lower volume foot so for a “performance fit” I’d go a half size down. The diagonal lacing is great as it tensions the shoe well but also allows for more rubber over the toe for hooking. The rubber is super sticky and hooks up well on edges but also smears well for a down turned shoe. It’s a winner!
Matt Murphy (verified owner) –
Great shoes. Pretty comfortable right out of the box, I went with the same size as my highangles. Much softer than I anticipated however, these are by far the softest shoes I have ever owned. Not a negative, I was just expecting a shoe with a little more stiffness. Edging hurts the toes a bit. That said I love the design and the fit and the rubber is super sticky.
Gregory Idler (verified owner) –
Shoes are great; going to buy my second pair a little bigger than the ones I wear now. The inside lining ripped on my left and right shoe where the reinforced pull tabs are. I want to see if a half size will make it so I don’t actually have to break the shoe to break it in.
Steven bouzas (verified owner) –
I am very happy with my Sirius lace ups. The shoes fit like a dream. No space in the heal, they have a great edge, and the rubber is super sticky. Also UPS customer service is awesome!
Alan –
Bought these in the same size as five ten dragons (size 10) based on recommendations given to me by a rep, and was a little disappointed they turned out to be about half a size too big. The rest of the review will be based on my experience with this specific pair of shoes I suspect is a little big. I was missing the heel tension I expect from a high end bouldering shoe, and the heel often felt insecure because of this. In addition, the missing tension also seems to affect the overall stiffness of the shoe, making it feel a bit softer than I feel is necessary. On the other hand, the lacing system seems to work really well, I could really dial down the fit with the laces. It’s a bit cumbersome but worth the effort. Rubber seems good as well.
Don Hampton –
so let she honest here, climbing is a sport of simplicity and bare necessities. A no frills type of sport if you will. I was drawn to UP by this very nature. As my favorite shoes moved to overseas production and an increase in weight / decrease in quality pushes me further away. Upon my first climb I found I purchased my ultimate shoe for all things steep. I was astounded at the precision these shoes provide along with the rubbers qualities. I can see how if you’re a “new climber” these would not be a good choice at all. I’ve been climbing for well over 15 years now and not once have I ever been greeted by a shoe with such precision OUT OF THE DAMN BOX! These are a no frills, performance shoe. Don’t even get me going on the Hell Hook abilities – UNREAL.
I’ve been climbing for 15 years and finally found my perfect shoe! Thank you!
Note : I Went 1/2 a street shoe down U.S. sizing and found them perfect.
Karsten (verified owner) –
My favorite shoes were the old Dragon, but after 5.10 butchered them with the new version I moved on. The Sirius looked close enough, but isn’t quite the same. Overall so far I can say that I like them a ton!
Pros:
– Great rubber. Stuck to super polished Font edges and smears equally well,
– Zero stretch so far.
– Bigger toe hook patch that seems to work pretty well. I actually think these toehook better than my old Hiangles.
– Heel fits me perfectly. It felt too stiff in the spine at first, but has softened up.
Cons:
– Laces are wayyyyy too long.
– I got the same size as my old Dragons (10) and later got a 9.5. I think these are slightly higher volume and a bit longer at the same size or something. The 9.5 is great and had zero break in!
If UP were to somehow make this into a slipper with the same closure as on the Leopard I think it would be the perfect shoe.
Jeffrey Baratta (verified owner) –
I’ve been really psyched to try these out. Ordered a half size down from my street and quickly found out they were way too small. Believe me I like an aggressive fit and don’t mind the pain at the beginning but this was pretty next level.
I followed directions for an exchange. Sent the box back with the filled out exchange form (UP does not provide a return label or pay for shipping after) I get it, don’t mind doing that… BUT I have yet to hear back about processing my exchange at all. It’s been a week since my return package was accepted at their facility and two emails later no response….
A size exchange should not be this difficult. I am really excited to climb in these and give an honest review on the quality just hope I get my new size here soon. At least an email saying where they are at in the process.
Gunna give 4 stars as the shoes looked amazing in person besides being too small. But 1 star on customer service at the moment…
I’ll update my review here once I hear back and get my new size. 🙂
Christopher Weaver (verified owner) –
The Sirius is an amazing shoe! It is stiff yet somehow very sensitive. The heel is perhaps the best I’ve ever used, and so properly designed to fit what seems like any heel! The laces provide incredible security, however are a bit difficult to adjust, but once you have them set up for your foot they will be dialed in every time. I have no lack of confidence when using this shoe!
Joseph R. –
A great shoe… BUT
So, first, I want to say that I am fantastically satisfied with the performance characteristics of these shoes. Heel hooks are secure, toe-hooking is solid, and I can toe down even on tiny edges and smears. These shoes have accompanied me from 5.10d/5.11a into 5.12a/b.
I bought both of my pairs a full size up from my street shoes (left 11.5, right 10.5) since I have some calf & foot issues from being born with club feet that make acclimating to aggressive shoes a slow and painful process.
They fit comfortable and snugly out of the box, holding my forefoot solidly and keeping the heel cup in place, despite the upsizing, and I’m planning to go down in size if I buy another pair to really get a performance fit.
However, of the 4 shoes, 3 of them have developed what I’ve been calling a toe rand split. On the outside of the big toe, the rubber of the rand has split horizontally after 2-3 months of intense use. This is not from wear or me dragging my toes (I have, in the past, ruined shoes that way and I recognize the signs.) This is the tension within the toe box pulling on the rubber and the rubber eventually failing under the strain.
When I had my first pair resoled, Unparallel repaired the split and I have not had an issue since, and that pair is everything I want from my shoes. However, my right shoe in my second pair has recently had the same issue.
Other than this splitting issue, I’ve been amazingly happy with the shoes during climbs, including on fully overhung 90-degree roofs. However, with the rubber splitting open for no reason I can’t give more than three stars, even though they’ve been 5-star shoes outside of that issue.
Chris N (verified owner) –
Best shoe I’ve had. Bought a size 10.5 (44 EUR). My previous shoes were Sportiva Skwamas and Muiras, which were both in EUR size 43, and the Sirius Laces still ran a bit smaller than the previous shoes, so that might be something to consider. Really soft shoe, so little break-in period. Heel and toe felt good, tight, and secure. I rarely tied the laces, as the shoe fit well for most climbing as a slip-on (with the exception of heel hooks). I’ve had the pair re-soled once, but the shoe as a whole is beginning to ware down. Will probably try a pair of the Regulus next, as there’s no need for laces if you’re not gonna use em.
Zach –
Performance of the shoe is exceptional. Incredibly soft shoe (similar in softness to the Scarpa Drago), great for the steeps and folks looking for a sensitive pair of kicks. I appreciate their simple old school appearance. The rubber is also proving to be surprisingly durable, I say surprisingly because of how soft they are and how much I climb. My primary complaint has to do with the interior lining of the upper (this is why I am giving them 4/5 stars). I bought these shoes a half size down from my street shoe size, which ended up being pretty tight but not unreasonably so. The lining in both shoes where my heel sits has torn and ripped, clearly from my foot sliding into the shoes as I pull them on. In my opinion these shoes would be much better without an interior lining as I never felt the material was especially comfortable to begin with, now with the linings torn the shoes are even less comfortable. In short, great performance on the rock, poor durability in the upper for me.
Nathan C –
Owned a pair for about 3 months now, they exceeded my expectations. I tend to think that they excel on steeper terrain but aren’t my first choice for difficult edging due to their softness. The sensitivity is really excellent in the toe and the rubber is some of the best (if not the best) I’ve used in terms of stickiness. The shape of the heel wouldn’t make me think that this shoe is excellent for heel hooking, but turns out its one of the best in my quiver for that purpose. I have also been pleasantly surprised with the durability of the rubber, given how soft it is. The only gripe I have is that the laces can be difficult to pull through the lace holes, making the on and off process a little difficult.
Brooks R –
This is the first shoe I’ve found to fit me absolutely perfectly. I got the same size as my street shoe and fit like a glove, whereas with other brands I found it would be like a compromise on the fit (dead space in arch, baggy heel, etc). The edging, heel and toe hooking, and even the smearing (in most cases) exceeded my expectations. I really liked how it fit even without tying the laces, so I could pop them on and off for projecting and fooling on stuff which was really nice for a lace up shoe. When cinching down the laces, you get that really nice tight glove fit that just inspires confidence. I love this shoe.
But, after about 3 or 4 months of ~3x a week climbing, the lining on the inside of the shoe started to tear out right where the shoe meets the ankle. It got to the point of the shoe just falling apart from the inside out, altering how the shoe sucked up into the arch of my foot, even with the laces tied. So I got another pair because these shoes are so so sooooo good. And then the same thing happened.
I got put on to UP by some friends that climbed in their shoes for awhile, and they all had similar experiences.
If the quality issues get worked out I’ll definitely be back
Mike (verified owner) –
Those are my favorite shoes right now. I used to wear dragons lace up and then the hiangles after I couldn’t find the old school dragons online. Finally made the move to the Sirius and they are fantastic. Fits similar to the dragons. Great climbing shoes.